Gabriola

Gabriola Island has a number of adjacent smaller islands and is surrounded by very active waterways - ferries and large cargo ships are plying back and forth along with many small fishing craft.

Locals wade looking for mussels but large quantities require a permit.  Many home sites have 5-10 acres of land around them and although there is some land cleared for paddocks the majority is forest.  It is a very creative and artistic place - potter's, painters, writers and every manner of crafts. There's a strong sense of community- everyone seems to know someone although Joyce says she no longer knows everyone.

We drove to Drumbeg Bay and walked along the water edge. There's no sand but rock platforms attract sunbathers. This area has Garry Oaks only found in this part of the island.  Yellow broom is rife here and an invasive pest which local land carers are working to eradicate.

The waters are generally too cold for swimming but the beach is still popular.

We have been staying with friends of Graeme and Joyce at their beautiful home on the coast. The block is a steep one and the garden flows seamlessly into the nearby forest. Sheila and Jim,  truly incredible hosts, have been inspired by Japanese gardens in the creation of their own garden. The simple lines of Japanese ornaments, considered plantings, pathways and sculptures combine. An authentically constructed tea house is central to the design

The newest addition to the garden is a driftwood sculpture of a bald eagle which regularly soar overhead. Jim and his daughter gathered the driftwood and created this majestic bird who looks over the garden and labyrinth which commemorates Sheila's sister.

This is our last day on the island. Tomorrow we reverse our travel back to Vancouver where we stay for 4 nights.

It has been a memorable stay here with Graeme and Joyce and Marg's other brother David and his wife Kate. As we sit on the verandah of Graeme's house (which he built himself) it is like being in a treehouse nestled in the trees - the only sound the drone of bees in the garden and the occasional harsh call of a crow. Just beautiful!

Markets and Birthdays!

Local markets are held frequently on Gabriola. The criteria for a stall is produce and products  must be personally hand grown or home made. The variety of stalls punches well above weight!

Vegetables, fruit, eggs, ropes of garlic, breads and scones artistically presented tempt locals and tourists. Huge crowds line up patiently to purchase. Artists and artisans display pottery, glass, leather, wood, paintings, felt work and handsewn aprons. Marg and I bought a print each from a friendly artist delicately painting her current project - we will post it back tomorrow if the internet co-operates at the post office. 

Afterwards we had coffee at Mad Ronas - cappuccino - before retiring to hang decorations and prepare for Graeme's 80th birthday party.

Guests drifted in around 4.0 bringing entrees and conversation flowed to a background of happy music provided by Graeme and his friend Mike - they have played together for many years even doing a bit of busking.

Sumptuous Atlantic salmon and succulent pork with salads followed by delicious birthday cake satisfied everyone and the conversation flowed enthusiastically in the shade of the garden. It was a lovely evening - everyone welcomed us and we left feeling as though we knew everyone.

Birthday celebrations continued on Sunday evening with blackberry pie. Blackberries grow along g the roads prolifically though not quite as invasiveness as in Canberra.  Blackberry pie night has been a tradition for Sheila and Jim to celebrate Graeme's birthday for over 20 years - it was truly excellent pie.

Re - energising!

We slept like the dead! Our gracious hosts Sheila and Jim ( friends of Marg's brother) made us so comfortable and welcome.  

Jim made us a magnificent breakfast and we sat out on the deck watching the sea and the passing traffic.

A tugboat passed towing a huge quantity of logs bound for the mill - ferries criss crossed the water way and a quantity of small fishing boats floated around. There was no beach to speak of rather a rocky shoreline strewn with logs which had escaped log barges. To see a tugboat dragging a log jam is less common now - often logs are transported in barges which holds the logs and automatically unloads them by tilting and releasing.

A number of Turkey Vultures flew overhead keen to feast on baby seals and seagulls calling a tiny island off the shore home. They were smaller than I imagined but obviously powerful and patient hunters. Eagles also circled competing for food. Cormorants lined up like small statues with wings spread to dry occasionally dived off the rocks seeking food. 

Marg did hear a deer did slip by during the night.

We conquered driving on the " wrong" side of the road but missed the turn off to Graeme's and consequently had to do a u-turn.  Again we missed the turn - another u-turn! It's hard to drive when you are laughing hysterically! We parked the car resolving to walk for the rest of the day.

The forest is really beautiful on the island! Houses are nestled amongst trees with gardens blending seamlessly with the forest. So far we have seen very little open land.

There are plenty of walking trails - we followed a small track meandering through tall, tall trees with an understory of ferns,  lichens and hanging mosses. There has been little rain over the past few months so the forest seemed quite dry. The trees are so tall and straight, some with a huge trunks. 

This walking trail forms part of a nature reserve in the traditional territory of the

Snuyenwumx First Nation. Filled with mature trees it is a sacred place connecting people with their ancestors. The energy of the land is strong here and people are asked to feel the connectedness of all things. Signage is in the First  Nation language as well as English.

We are very aware of an incredible stillness in the early evening. There isn't a breath of wind and no bird song at all. Traffic sounds have died away and the light is quite golden and clear.

We found good coffee- hurrah!

 

Arriving.

Our adventure began with a decidedly grumpy shuttlebus driver once Murray's Coaches deposited us at the International airport. He was not a happy camper! "Get on the bus" he shouted after we had heaved our suitcases into the trolley without any help. One of the other passengers - a young man  from Peru - wondered " Why is he so pissed?" He drove at brake-neck speed through the congestion of road works, and changed road conditions to our hotel at the same time reading from his passenger list. I would have liked to ask him to moderate his speed and fully address the road but what if he had stopped and made me get out?

Surprisingly the plane was only a few minutes behind schedule on departure. Our route to the departure gate was seamless - we were not seduced by duty free but forked out an exorbitant amount for coffee and a croissant. 

The flight experienced turbulence for about two thirds of the flight - severe enough to prohibit service of hot drinks and delay meals. It was a long 14 hours with the flight path making a number of deviations to escape turbulence.

Customs was quick and easy - no one called us aside so we obviously looked innocent and non threatening. 

I must mention coffee! It is horrible! A flat white became black coffee with milk added and was horribly strong and didn't improve during the day. But the Canadians are super friendly and even on the street offered help as we peered at bus stop numbers or looked vaguely around.for street names.

The bus for the ferry left from the front of the  Hudson Bay Company incorporated in 1640 - a living bit of history.

The express bus deposited us at the ferry terminal at Horseshoe Bay for the trip to Vancouver Island. A chat in the cafeteria assured us that cappuccino would have been possible if only the machine was not broken!

We munched on a chicken wrap whilst watching a baseball match and listening to the rich tapestry of voices around us.

The water sparkled, we could see a touch of snow on distant mountains and forests of pine and fir reached down to water's edge.  

 Our adventurous day ended with warm welcoming hugs from Marg's brothers and family and lots of self congratulations. We ate fresh Mushroom pasta and birthday cake on the verandah in Graeme' s wild and beautiful garden before going to our accommodation. 

" Don't be alarmed if you tip tapping during the night - it's only deer walking over the deck and through the garden!" , we were assured.

Canada - here we come!

 Only five sleeps to go!

Marg and I smiling at the end of our first climb to a temple on the Pilgrim's Trail in Japan - so looking forward to a bit of hiking in Canada. Bears? Beaver? Maybe a moose?